Mountain Retreat: Dorogawa Onsen Town

Dorogawa Onsen’s charm lies in its harmonious blend of nature and tradition. The town’s high elevation and clear air make it a refreshing respite from the summer heat. The streets are lined with traditional shops and ryokan lodgings, many that have been managed by the same family for generations, preserving the town’s historical ambiance. These ryokan were once the lodgings for ascetic monks who did various spiritual practices of Shugendo, an esoteric religion blending Buddhism, Shinto, and mountain worship.

At night, the town transforms as paper lanterns illuminate the streets, creating a romantic, old-time atmosphere. Visitors often stroll in cotton yukata, embracing the authentic spa town experience. The town has its own craft beers which you can try at the standing bar on its main street.

The hot springs of Dorogawa originate from sacred Mt. Omine, a major center of worship for practitioners of Shugendo. The alkaline hot spring water, with a temperature of 26°C, is known for its soothing properties. 

Dorogawa is not only about natural beauty. It is also rich in cultural and spiritual experiences. The town serves as a starting point for pilgrims heading to Mt. Omine, a sacred mountain off-limits to women, and the focus of Shugendo practitioners and nearby, Ryusen-ji Temple welcomes all visitors and is known for its beautiful gardens, legends about local dragons, and esoteric fire rituals.

In early August, the Dorogawa Gyoja Festival brings the town to life with processions of masked dancers in summer robes, celebrating the legendary return of Shugendo founder En no Gyoja from exile. It’s a unique opportunity to witness traditional rituals and the vibrant community spirit.

Reaching Dorogawa Onsen requires a bit of planning but is well worth the effort. From Kyoto, Osaka, or Nara, take the Kintetsu Line to Shimoichiguchi Station. From there, a bus ride of about an hour will bring you to Dorogawa Onsen. The journey offers scenic views and a gradual immersion into the tranquil atmosphere of the region.