Time Travel with Ancient Buddhist Sculpture at Nara’s Shinyakushiji Temple

Shinyakushiji Temple, Nara

One of the biggest reasons to visit Nara is that it is home to some of the oldest Buddhist sculptures in Japan, and some of them are in the worship halls of the temples for which they were originally made. In many cases, they are not in their original places or arrangements, but there is still great value in viewing these works of art closest to the context in which they first functioned. As much as their enclosure in a place of devotion, their illumination by soft light, the scent of drifting incense, the acoustics produced by the architecture (and sometimes of the wildlife in the gardens beyond), and the presence of visiting worshippers enhances the experience of the sculptures… so too does the absence of the often white-cube museum aesthetic, the isolation of works as standalone pieces, the exhibit-spectator dynamic, and curatorship that often secularises. There are different ways of viewing religious art, and should be, but for me (and I hope for you), feeling that one can at least sense something of the distant past and the life of these objects within it is an enchanting opportunity. It goes without saying that Todaiji Temple with its giant Buddha is a wonderful example, but for those who would prefer to escape the crowds, Shinyakushiji Temple – a pleasant walk or quick bus ride from Todaiji/the city centre – is another astounding and impressive example.

Here we can find a large, contemplative Medicine Buddha carved from wood seated within a near-circle of warrior gods, the Twelve Heavenly Generals – on a raised candlelit altar, and all are from the 8th century. From the short (a mere two decade-long) Tenpyo period, this is rare sculpture from the time. And made at this time they are part of the material culture of Nara’s heyday as the old imperial capital. They were created under the auspices of the temple founder Empress as a way of finding healing for her ailing husband, Emperor Shomu, well-known for his sponsorship of the aforementioned Todaiji temple. The Medicine Buddha could respond to this request. Traditional iconography for this Buddha prescribes an entourage of twelve warriors and, as deeply peaceful – and tremendously beautiful – as the central Buddha is, the warriors are no less fascinating and artistically compelling. Each one is associated with a Chinese zodiac animal, a month, and a Buddhist deity. The armour and weapons are a treat for enthusiasts of historical military garb, too. Each one is different and each strikes a different commanding stance, like a kabuki actor in the frozen mie pose. And if flat in places, they are also highly realistic and individuated. It is an important reminder that fierce defense and potential aggression had and still have a place in Buddhism which is normally portrayed as peaceful (even if these to a certain extent serve a symbolic function). As is the case with many early Japanese Buddhist sculptures of warrior deities they have faces more easily recognised as central Asian rather than Japanese, giving an insight into the continental connections Nara maintained at the time.

Shinyakushiji temple grounds in summer

No photos of the sculptures are allowed but good A4 size ones are available for purchase and there is an explanatory video in another hall that shows closeups as well as the process of how the sculptures were originally made. Some of the sculptures are also digitally reconstructed in their original colours – a reminder of how vivid they once were. No English subtitles – but the general gist is well conveyed.

Explanatory video on the Buddhist warrior sculptures in Shinyakushiji temple

Explanatory video on the Buddhist warrior sculptures in Shinyakushiji temple, showing original colouring

Temple interiors are normally naturally quite cool, and with their quietness and serene, lush environments they are lovely and relaxing places to spend an afternoon on a hot day. Shinyakushiji temple is a unique treasure still little-known to the visitor to Nara. When viewing art in their places of worship some remark “museum-worthy”. Equally valid is the opposite evaluation: temple-worthy. And Shinyakushiji’s in-situ sculptures offer the chance to feel as if you have been magically whisked back in time to the 8th century – as well as welcome respite from the hot weather and crowds.

A shrine for the Shinto god within the Buddhist temple’s grounds

The district in which Shinyakushiji temple is situated, Takabatakecho, is also home to novelist Shiga Naoya’s old residence, and borders the Kasugayama Primeval Forest, a path through which leads to Kasugataisha Shrine (currently showing this exhibition at its museum). Steps away are many smaller temples of interest, local architecture – yellow earthenware walls and small round-arched gates characterise it – and Edo period merchant houses, as well as a number of pleasant cafes.

Shinyakushiji temple location

Official website (Japanese only)

Admission: Open daily 9am-5pm

Adults 600 yen, teenagers 350 yen, children 150 yen. Group discounts are also available. Purchase tickets (cash only) at the machine at the entrance to the main worship hall.