In The Village in the Sky: Totsukawa’s Summer Fireworks Festival, Dorokyo Gorge, and Tanize Suspension Bridge

The season for water-activities – rafting and canyoning, or just spending time near lakes, rivers, and waterfalls – is from May onwards and into summer as Nara begins to heat up. There is a place up in the mountains that is a favourite of mine for many reasons, not least among them its stunningly beautiful gorge. Summer is also a time for firework festivals in Japan, and not far from the gorge, there’s one being held this June 1st.

Totsukawa Village and its emerald waters

Known as “the village in the sky”, and every bit as pretty and enchanting as that sounds, Totsukawa is famed for being Nara’s largest village. Made up of multiple hamlets, it has an area of a grand 672 km sq and is surrounded by lush mountains with peaks of up to 1000 m. For hikers, it’s also part of the Kumano Kodo – a route once mainly for mountain Buddhists or pilgrims, that runs through the mountains linking Kumano to Koyasan (two sacred World Heritage Sites). For lovers of onsen, it has some of the best mineral-rich natural hotsprings in Kansai, if not Japan (in this onsen-fanatic’s humble opinion). But it is also ribboned by a river and a spectacular gorge, and this alone is reason enough to visit this part of Nara.

Dorokyo (Doro Gorge)

In 1898, a village that was originally on the riverbank beneath the bridge was swept away by floods that caused devastation to many parts of Totsukawa, as were subsequent structures made of logs and used for crossing the river. The suspension bridge was built in the 1950s without government assistance and rather, through the fundraising of the villagers themselves – it serves as a strong testament to the cohesion of the community at the time.

Tanize Suspension Bridge stretching across Totsukawa River

At 54 m above the river (and 297 m in length) the Tanize (or Tanise) Suspension Bridge is one of the longest in Japan, and a popular spot for visitors to Totsukawa. For the unaccustomed, it’s quite thrilling to cross!

Dorokyo (Doro Gorge), characterized by remarkably bright emerald green waters and unusual ancient rock formations, is another astounding part of Totsukawa and its natural scenery. It is edged by the borders of three different prefectures – Nara, Mie, and Wakayama and for a journey through it, jet boat river cruises and kayaks are both available.

Dorokyo (Doro Gorge), Totsukawa – view from Doro Hotel

Overlooking it is the Doro Hotel which has been run for over a century by the same family. The hotel café provides drinks, light food – and spectacular views.

This year on June 1st there will be a fireworks festival – with a taiko drum performance, booths, and karaoke – in the Uenoji area (where the Tanize Suspension Bridge is located) to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Totsukawa’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. An evening of fireworks after a trip through the gorge, and a visit to the hotel to overlook the beauty – could there be a nicer plan for a summer’s day?

Totsukawa Village website here (English and Japanese).

Fireworks Festival in Uenoji

Website (Japanese only)

June 1st (Saturday)

Events from 2pm

Fireworks from 7:30

Access: Location of Uenoji

See below for train and bus information to Totsukawa itself. If using a car/taxi, please use the parking lot next to the venue or the former Ueno Junior High School grounds for parking. A shuttle bus (free) and village-run taxi to and from Totsukawa Onsen Hotel Subaru will also be operating. Buses will leave from Totsukawa Onsen at 12:15, 12:30, and 12:45 to arrive in time for the afternoon events and 15:00, 15:15, and 15:30 for the evening events (timetable here; Japanese only). Return buses and taxis will operate after the festival ends, from around 20:30.

For Totsukawa:

Without a car it is not easy to access Totsukawa, but there are Nara Kotsu buses running between Yamato-Yagi Station (on the Kintetsu Line) and Shingu Station (on the JR Nanki Line). The buses run 3 times a day.

For Tanize Suspension Bridge (65-2 Uenoji, Totsukawamura, Yoshino-gun, Nara):

From Shin-Osaka Station, take the Osaka East Line to Kyuhoji Station (approximately 35 minutes). Walk to Oji Station and ride the Wakayama Line to Gojo (approximately 55 minutes). Take the bus for JR Shin Omiya Station and alight at Uenoji Teiryujyo. On foot, the bridge is 33 minutes from the bus stop.

For Dorokyo Gorge:

From Kintetsu Yagi Station, take the bus bound for JR Shingu Station, get off at Totsukawa Yakuba and walk 5 minutes from the stop.