Yoshino in Summer: encountering Shugendo, Japan’s most mysterious religion, and Kinpusenji Temple

In the mountains of Nara Prefecture lies Yoshino, which is best known in Japan, and beyond, for its spectacular cherry blossoms. But it can be enjoyed in the hot summer months too, and its charms and significance extend even further those of the beautiful cherry blossoms. The sakura are devotional, planted over centuries as acts of reverence and offering to Zaō Gongen who is worshipped in this area. In summer, the surroundings are lush green, and the elevation creates a cooler space in these increasingly hot and humid summers.

Kinpusenji Temple

Mount Yoshino has long served as a spiritual axis in Japanese culture, particularly within Shugendō, a syncretic ascetic tradition blending Buddhism, Shinto, and Daoism. Shugendo is still little-known outside Japan, but it can be said to be a religion that, while it mixes tantric Buddhism with Shinto, and utilises Daoist ideas and some forms of magic, it is unique to Japan. One could say that it is a religion that, essentially, developed out of geology. Its practices and beliefs are focused on mountains and their meanings, as well as the physical challenges mountainous terrain presents. The teachings of these mountain monks are closely guarded – it is not only little-known outside Japan but little-known within it too.

The headquarters for many Shugendo monks is Yoshino mountain’s central temple, Kinpusen-ji. Founded in the 7th century, it is still a place of intensive religious practice and remains a pilgrimage destination as well. And inside its massive wooden hall, Zaō-dō, enshrines Zaō Gongen, a deity unique to Shugendō. The two gigantic Zao Gongen statues are hidden for most of the year, but are open for a few weeks during spring and autumn. However, you can see smaller but still impressive statues of Zao Gongen in the exhibit section behind the altar, along with various Shugendo artefacts including old and decorative wooden chests that the mountain monks used to use as backpacks.

Original merchandise from Kinpusenji Temple – a teddy bear Shugendo monk

Yoshino Shrine grounds

Another great museum is found a short walk from Kinpusenji in Yoshino Shrine, which a place with connections to an ambitious emperor who fled here during conflicts concerning rule. The museum is crammed with swords, armour, documents and paintings from his time, and the samurai culture of the medieval period. See below for travel directions!

Yoshino Shrine (Yoshino Jinja)

Incredible paintings at Yoshino Shrine

Directions: The Yoshinoyama Ropeway (cable) runs from Senbonguchi Station (in front of Kintetsu Yoshino Station) to Yoshinoyama Station (Shimosenbon). Kinpusenji Temple is a ten-minute walk from there.