Rainy Season at Tanzan Shrine, Nara

If you’re visiting Nara in June, you may expect quiet temple strolls, hydrangeas in bloom, and the soft hush of the rainy season, which we have just entered. For kanji enthusiasts, there is an evocative alternative term for “tsuyu” (梅雨 – rainy season) with the same sound in Japanese which uses the characters for “chestnut flower fall” (and these characters – 栗花落 – are not easily recognisable to most Japanese readers). It refers to the period when chestnut flowers bloom, which coincides with the start of the rainy season. Chestnut flowers bloom in a burst of long catkins, and some say their scent is reminiscent of the scent when bamboo shoots are peeled. In the forested hills east of Asuka and south of Sakurai  lies one of Nara’s most atmospheric yet under-visited sacred sites, which offers great beauty on days of lighter rainfall: Tanzan Shrine (談山神社, Tanzan Jinja).

Alhough it bears the name of a Shinto shrine today, Tanzan’s architectural and spiritual DNA still reflects its past as a Buddhist temple. Originally founded as Tonomine-dera, it was transformed into a Shinto site during the Meiji Restoration (1868–1912), when Japan’s new government implemented policies to separate Shinto from Buddhism and elevate it as the state religion. That legacy lingers in the layered layout of the complex, which feels far more monastic than most shrines.

The site’s significance begins with the man it enshrines: Fujiwara no Kamatari, a 7th-century courtier and statesman who founded the powerful Fujiwara clan. His descendants would go on to dominate the imperial court for centuries, especially during the Heian period (794–1185), effectively becoming the true rulers of Japan through strategic marriages and behind-the-scenes governance.

Visitors enter through a traditional torii gate and climb nearly one hundred stone steps up the forested slope. The climb is rewarded at the top by a unique and striking feature: a 13-story wooden pagoda, built in 1532 during the Muromachi period. At 17 meters tall, it’s the only one of its kind in Japan and serves as a vivid reminder of the site’s Buddhist past.

To the right of the pagoda, a cluster of elegant shrine buildings unfolds, including the main hall and a veranda-style balcony that opens onto sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. In late spring and summer, this spot is lush in its greenery.

For those looking to combine cultural exploration with outdoor adventure, a scenic two-hour hike connects Tanzan Shrine to the Ishibutai Kofun in nearby Asuka Town. The trail crosses forested ridgelines and ancient paths, tracing the footsteps of courtiers, monks, and pilgrims from centuries past.

Whether you’re drawn by its architectural uniqueness, historical weight, or natural setting, Tanzan Shrine offers a multi-layered experience. It’s a place where Japan’s spiritual traditions, political history, and landscape come together quietly, powerfully, and just off the beaten path.

Location: 319 Tonomine, Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture 633-0032

From Nara City (JR Nara Station or Kintetsu Nara Station)

1. Take the Kintetsu Line:

   • Board a Kintetsu train from Kintetsu Nara Station to Yamato-Yagi Station (approx. 40 minutes, transfer at Yamato-Saidaiji if needed).

2. Transfer to the JR Line:

   • From Yamato-Yagi, transfer to the JR Sakurai Line and go to Sakurai Station (approx. 10 minutes).

3. Bus from Sakurai Station:

   • Take a Nara Kōtsū Bus bound for Tanzan Jinja-mae (談山神社前).

   • Ride time: Approximately 25–30 minutes.

4. Walk to the Shrine:

   • From the bus stop, it’s a 5–10 minute uphill walk to the main shrine precincts.