Isuien, Nara’s Traditional Japanese Gardens, & Neiraku Art Museum

Isuien is a very beautiful traditional Japanese garden in the centre of Nara City which feels like a secluded paradise and is a lovely place to stroll amid the serene natural scenery, to clear the mind, to have a chat, or to meditate by a babbling stream or one of the large ponds. The garden is divided into two parts – one of them designed in the Edo period ( 17^th century) by Kiyosumi Dosei who lived under the Shogunal regime, and another, more recently, by businessman Seki Tojiro in the Meiji period (early 20^th century).

For the garden enthusiast or historian there are some interesting and inspiring differences in the landscaping but for the visitor simply in search of a tranquil place to spend some time, the gardens and the traditional buildings (that include four teahouses and a tiny Shinto shrine) dotted throughout them make for a seamless whole of gentle rolling hills, stepping-stoned paths, spaces with benches to rest on, and a plethora of seasonal flora.

Isuien is as lovely on an overcast, cool and drizzly day (as pictured here) as it is on a blue-skied sunny one – which is quite by design. Since the flowering bushes and trees were planted on a selective basis to bring out the best of the season, the gardens themselves are fully enveloped in and aligned with the climate and the ambience that brings. Another old Japanese landscaping technique comes into play here too – that of “borrowed scenery”. This is most evident in the back garden which incorporates the wider scenery, including that of the three major beloved mountains around Nara. These are well beyond the parameters of the garden but are “borrowed” – skillfully melded into the overall scene as viewed from Isuien. Parts of Todaiji – the great ancient temple that houses a giant Buddha – are also visible.

There is also the small but impressive Neiraku Museum of Art situated within the garden which rotates displays of pieces from the art collection belonging to the family who owns Isuien. It is currently showing ceramics from China and Korea (some of it dating back to the 12^th century) (among it some fine celadon), ancient Chinese mirrors and bronzes – both marvelously carved with elaborate pattern schemes and motifs related to beliefs about the spirit world – a number of fascinating old official seals, and some charming modern Japanese dolls and paintings.

For a little peace away from the noise of the city, but well within walking distance of it, Isuien provides a lovely retreat, and is an extremely beautiful example of two periods of Japanese garden design. It is so close (on foot) to Todaiji temple, Kofukuji temple, and Nara Park that it is easy to weave into a day visit to Nara. It also has a restaurant and cafe in a beautiful old building serving traditional Japanese food. For anyone with a love of traditional Japanese gardens, a smaller example – this time in a private residence, but as absolutely charming in its own way and with some personal idiosyncratic touches – I recommend that of novelist Shiga Naoya’s Old House in Naramachi. On the cusp of the full blossoming of the sakura cherry blossoms, both currently promise a particularly special Spring splendor and tranquility.

Access:

Isuien Gardens & Neiraku Museum of Art: 74 Suimoncho, Nara

15 minutes’ walk from Kintetsu Nara Station

Open:

9:30am-4:30pm everyday – last entry 4pm

Closed: 

Year-end and New Year holidays

Public holidays

Tuesday (open daily in Apr, May, Oct and Nov)

Hours can be occasionally irregular.

Admission:

Adults: 1200 yen
College student: 500 yen
High school and middle school students: 500 yen
Elementary school students: 300 yen

Group discounts are available as are discounts for disabled visitors.

Restaurant Sanshu

11:30am-2pm (last order)

(Cafe: 10:30am-3:30pm)